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Reports of Explorations & Surveys Vol 3 Pacific Railroad Maps
Reports of Explorations and Surveys Vol 3 extracts from the preliminary report of Lieutenant AW Whipple with an explanatory note by Captain AA Humphreys NOTE: The boos was used to press leaves. Some remnants may be observed on the pages. Spine covering is missing. Staining throughout. No pages are stuck together. Complete. Definitely not in the best of condition but the information is invaluable for research and the history of the growth of railroads. All pages are readable. Does not lay flat. Needs some weight to straighten it out.
Reports of the Explorations and surveys to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean.
Hard Cover
Copyright 1856
77 pages + 127 pages + 175 pages
GENERAL TABLE OF CONTENTS.
1.1
PART I. ITINERARY.
PART II.
REPORT ON THE TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES AND CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
PART III.
REPORT UPON THE INDIAN TRIBES: By Lieutenant A. W. WHIPPLE, THOMAS EWBANK., Esq., and Prof. WILLIAM W. TURNER.
PART IV.
REPORT ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE.
1.-General Report upon the Geological Collections, with a Geological Map, Section, &c., by W. P. BLAKE, Geologist of the office of the Pacific Railroad Explorations and Surveys.
2.-Resumand Field Notes, with a Geological Section, and other Illustrations, by JULES MARCOU, Geologist and Mining Engineer to the Expedition.
PART V.
REPORT ON THE BOTANY OF THE EXPEDITION.
1.-General Description of the Botanical Character of the Country, with a Botanical Map and Profile, by JOHN M. BIGALOW, M. D., Surgeon and Botanist to the Expedition.
2.-Description of the Forest Trees, by JOHN M. BIGELOW, M. D.
3.-Description of the Cactaceae, with Illustrations, by GEORGE ENCELMANN, M. D., of St. Louis, and Join M. BIGELOW, M. D
4.-Description of the general Botanical collections, with illustrations, by Prof. John Torrey, M. D., L. L. D., and Prof ASA GRAY, M. D., L. L. D.
5-Description of the Mosses and Liverworts, with Illustrations, by W. S. SULLIVANT, Esq.
PART VI
REPORT ON THE ZOOLOGY OF THE EXPEDITION.
1.-Field Notes, and Explanations, by C. B. R. KENNERLY, M. D., Physician and Naturalist to the Expedition.
2.-General Description of the Zoological Collections, by Prof. S F. BAIRD and C. GIRARD, M. D., Smithsonian Institution.
APPENDICES
APPENDIX A.
ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS WITH SEXTANT.
APPENDIX B.
ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS WITH TRANSIT.
APPENDIX C.
COMPARISON OF CHRONOMETERS.
APPENDIX D.
LIST OF CAMPS, WITH DISTANCES, ALTITUDES, ASTRONOMICAL POSITIONS, &c.
APPENDIX E.
MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS.
APPENDIX F.
TABLE OF COMPUTATIONS FOR MAGNETIC INTENSITY.
APPENDIX G.
TABLE OF RESULTS FOR MAGNETIC INCLINATION AND INTENSITY.
APPENDIX H.
PSYCHROMETRIC AND CLIMATOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.
APPENDIX I.
BAROMETRIC AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.
APPENDIX K.
TABLES OF INSTRUMENTAL ERRORS AND HORARY CORRECTIONS, TO BE APPLIED TO THE BAROMETRIC OBSERVATIONS, WITH CLIMATOLOGICAL REMARKS AND CHART, PREPARED BY MR. LORIN BLODGET.
APPENDIX L. TABLE OF RESULTS FOR ABNORMAL VARIATIONS OF ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE, AS DETERMINED FROM BAROMETRIC RECORDS KEPT AT VARIOUS MILITARY POSTS.
APPENDIX M.
TABLE OF BAROMETRIC HEIGHTS.
APPENDIX N.
TABLE OF GRADES.
ERRATA.
Page 31, line 39, for "captains" read captives.
Page 76, line 19, for "vocabularly" read vocabulary. Page 82, line 16, for " improvisatore" read improvisated.
Page 99, line 51, insert a comma after " miles," and erase the comma after "stream." Page 106, line 19, for " to Zu, to the Gila," read from Zuto the Gila.
Page 112, line 7, for " encampe" read encamped. Page 119, line 6, for " Pinal Delius" read Pinal.
Page 133, bottom line, for " D. J. Miles" read D. S. Niles.
CHAPTER I. From Fort Smith to Scullyville.
Commencement of the survey.-Thunder-storm.-Ring's plantation.-Scullyville.-Arrival of stores at Fort Smith.--Explorations in vicinity of the Poteau.-Visit to Fort Coffee.-Choctaw academy.-Account of the Choctaws and their government. Page 5.
CHAPTER II. From Scullyville to Delaware settlement.
Arrival of the escort.-A new recruit.-Departure from Scullyville.-Long prairie.-Illness and return of Mr. Jones.-Sans Bois creek.-Gaines' creek.-Singular alternations of woodland and prairie.-Chickasaw village.-Coal strata.-Shawnee village -Account of the inhabitants.-Mexican captives.-Visit to Little River settlement.-Shawnee town.-Favorable route from Coal creek to Boggy river.-Head-waters of the Boggy.-Delaware mount.-Old Camp Arbuckle. Page 10.
CHAPTER III. From Delaware settlement to Oak creek.
Difficulty of procuring a guide.-Jesse Chisholm.-Accounts of the Cherokees, their rites and ceremonies.--Remarks regarding the Comanches and other tribes.-Straying of animals.-Discovery of a comet.-Mexican captives.-A Delaware carousal.-Return of Mr. Gaines.-Prairie on fire.-Cross Timbers.-Hueco Indians.-Vincente, the interpreter.-Kichai guide.-Branches of Walnut creek. -Finely timbered valleys.-Fertility of the soil.-March interrupted by burning prairies.-A norther.-Deer creek.-Buffalo crossing.-Rock Mary.-Gypsum creek.-Bear creek.-Valley of False Washita.-Elm creek.-Comet creek.-Silver creek.-Marcou creek.-Oak creek. Page 19.
CHAPTER IV. From Oak creek to Rocky Dell creek.
Buffalo creek.-Alamo spring.-Divide between the False Washita and Canadian.-Entrance to Canadian valley.-Antelope hills.-Grape creek.--Buffalo, and other game.-Interview with Comanches.-Wolf creek.-Natural mounds.-Wine creek.-Vineyard.-Valley river.-Meeting with Kiowas.-Mexican traders.-Kiowa village.-Captives.-Council with the Indians.-Crossing of the Canadian.-Abandoned trading-post.-White Sandy creek.-Shady creek.-Deserted Comanche encampment.-Red Bank creek.-Beautiful View creek.-Llano Estacado.-Encampment creek.-Rocky Dell creek. Page 28.
CHAPTER V. From Rocky Dell creek to Anton Chico.
Cave at Rocky Dell.-Pueblo Indian traders.-Violent storm.-Halt creek.-Antelope.-Staked Plain.-Fossil creek.Tucumcari creek.-Plaza Larga.-Laguna Colorada.-Arroyo de Pajarito.-Arroyo Cuerbito.-Digging for prairie dogs.-Hurrah creek.-Rio de Gallinas.-Sheep spring.-Anton Chico. Page 37.
CHAPTER VI. From Anton Chico to Albuquerque.
Pecos valley.-Sudden freshet.-Division of party.-Agua Negra.-La Cuesta.-Cation Blanco.-La Laguna.-Town and river of Galisteo -Los Cerritos .-Cienega.--PeBlanca.-San Domingo.-Indian hospitality.-San Felipe.-Bernarclillo.-Pueblo de Zandia.-Albuquerque. Page 42.
CHAPTER VII. From Albuquerque to Pueblo de la Laguna.
Detention upon the Rio Grande for supplies.-Plotting of notes.-Information regarding the country west.-Sitgreaves' route.-Walker's route.-Aubrey's route.-Employment of guide.-Geological reconnoissance to Zandia mountain and to the gold mines.-Examinations upon the Del Norte for a suitable place for a bridge.-Pueblo of Isleta.-Bosque de los Pinos.-Military post at Las Lunas.-Arrival of Lieut. Ives and party from El Paso.-Magnetic and astronomical instruments.-Remarks upon the mode of using them.-Division of the party.-Continuation of the survey, via Isleta, to Rio Puerco and the San Josvalley.-Direct route from Albuquerque to Rita.-Coal in the valley of Rio Puerco.-El Alamo.-Ruins of Rita.-Rancho Colorado.-Pueblo de la Laguna. Page 48.
CHAPTER VIII. From Pueblo de la Laguna to Zu.
Covero.- Navajo depredations.-Disturbance at a fandango.-Mount Taylor.-Hay camp.-Lava bed.-Division of party.-Camino del Obispo.-Forests of Sierra Madre.-Agua Fria.-Acoma Indians.-Summit of Sierra Madre.--Inscription rock.-Ojo del Pescado.-Ancient ruins.-Coal.-Rio de Zu.-Sacred spring.-Visit to Zu.-Small-pox.-Caciques-System of government.-White Indians.-Party from Fort Defiance.-Campbell's Pass.-Tradition of the flood.-Visit to Old Ma-Sacred altar.-Arch spring. Page 61.
CHAPTER IX. From Zuto the Little Colorado.
Council of Caciques.-Offers of guides and assistance.-Mexican deserter.-Ancient manuscripts.-Cultivation of corn.-Departure from Zu.-Jacob's well.-Estimates of population.-Navajo spring.-Messengers to Moqui.-Carrizo creek-Lithodendron creek.-Petrified forests.-Adaptation of the country for raising sheep.-Colorado Chiquito.-Return of Zuguides.-Accounts of Navajo Indians.-Proposed reconnoissance to San Francisco mountain.-Ruins.-Stampede of the animals.-Arrival of Lieut. Tidball and escort from Fort Defiance. Page 71.
CHAPTER X. From the Little Colorado to New Year's spring.
Departure of reconnoitring party.-CaDiablo.-Pine forests.-San Francisco mountain.-Leroux's spring.-San Francisco springs.-Cosnino caves.-Return to the train.-Leaving the Little Colorado.-Christmas in the mountains.-Proposed routes to the Colorado.-Another reconnoissance.-Bill Williams' mountain.-New Year's spring.-Extensive view toward the west.-Black forests.-Continuation of explorations.-Return to New Year's spring.-Arrival of the train. Page 78.
CHAPTER XI. From New Year's spring to Pueblo creek.
Lava spring.-Cedar creek.-Partridge creek.-Game.-Reconnoissance towards Picacho mountain.-Picacho spring.-Val de China.-Turkey creek.-Pueblo creek.-Aztec mountains.-Aztec Pass.-Return to Pueblo creek.-Ruins of ancient pueblos and fortresses.-Arrival of train. Page 88.
CHAPTER XII. From Pueblo creek to mouth of Rio Santa Maria.
Bill Williams' Fork.-Gemini mountain.-Reconnoissance westward.-Aquarius mountain. -- White Cliff creek.-Indian breakfast.-Yampais Indians.-Cactus Pass.-Arrival of the train.-Reconnoissance resumed.-Big Sandy.-Big Horn spring.-Junction of Big Sandy with Bill Williams' Fork.-Cactaceae.-Rio Santa Maria. Page 94.
CHAPTER XIII. From mouth of Rio Santa Maria to the Chemehuvalley of the Colorado.
Continuation of the reconnoissance down Bill Williams' Fork.-Coming up of the train.-Cave in a canon.-Ancient drawings and inscriptions.-Colorado river.-Country near the mouth of Bill Williams' Fork.-Difficulty of ascending the valley.-First meeting with Colorado Indians.-Abandonment of wagons.-Party of ChemehuIndians. Page 105.
CHAPTER XIV. From the Chemehuto the Mojave valley, on the Colorado.
Progress up the river.-Mojave band and chief.-Trading for provisions.-An old acquaintance from the Gila.--Mojave country.-Ceremonial visits from the Indians.-Their dress, ornaments, dwellings, &c.-Crossing the Colorado river.-Assistance of the Indians.-Council of the Mojaves.-Offer of a guide. Page 112.
CHAPTER XV. From the Colorado river to the Mormon road.
Leaving the Colorado river.-View from the bounding ridge.-Springs.-Paiute creek.-Rock spring.-Division of the party.-Marl springs.-Desert.-Soda lake.-Arrival at Lieut. Ives' camp.-Mojave river.-Remarks on the Mojave Indians and the Colorado valley.-Mexican herder missing.-Statement of the guide in regard to the continuance of the Mojave river to the Colorado.-Search for the lost herder.-Pursuit after the Paiutes.-Return of the Mojave guides.-Mormon road. Page 120
CHAPTER XVI. From the Mormon road to the Pacific.
Mormon travellers--Cajon Pass-Timber-Express from Jarupa-Disbanding of party -Cocomonga-Cahuillas-El Monte-Mormons at San Bernardino-Mission of San Gabriel-Los Angeles-Sale of property-San Pedro Page 129
ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. Plate No. 1, view from the left bank of Rio Colorado, near Mojave village, looking W. N. W. Frontispiece.
2. View of Fort Smith 5
3. View of the Canadian river at the mouth of Longtown creek 13
4. View of Rock Mary25
5. View on the Canadian river at Camp 38 30
6. Valley of La Cuesta, Rio Pecos 43
7. Entrance of Santa Fl river to the valley of Rio Grande, near PeBlanca 45
8. Pueblo de Zuili67
9. Sketch of a petrified tree near Lithodendron creek 74
10. View of the San Francisco mountains from Leroux's spring 80
11. View of Black Forest, Picacho, and mountains north of Aztec Pass85
12. Sketch of a trap dike at Bivouac 2, January 2695
13. View from Bivouac 4, January 2897
14. Sketch of a Cereus Giganteus on Williams' river 101
15. Valley of Williams' river, near the beaver-clams102
16. Artillery peak 103
17. Callon of Williams' river 108
18. Camp scene in the Mojave valley of Rio Colorado113
19. Sketch of a Mojave raft 117
20. Sketch of a yucca tree upon the slopes of Paiute mountain 121
INTRODUCTION.
INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE WAR DEPARTMENT.
" WAR DEPARTMENT, Washington, May 14, 1853.
" Under the 10th and 11th sections of the Military Appropriation act, approved March 3, 1853, directing `such explorations and surveys' to be made as might be deemed necessary to ' ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean,' the War Department directs such explorations and surveys to be made as will develop the availability for this purpose of that portion of our territory which lies near the parallel of 35north latitude. The following instructions with reference thereto are issued for the government of the different branches of the public service:
" 1: The party for this exploration and survey will be commanded by First Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, of the topographical engineers, who will be assisted by brevet Second Lieutenant J. C. Ives, topographical engineers, and such civil assistants as may be required and the Secretary of War approve.
2. The Adjutant General will detail the necessary escort, transportation for the provisions and equipage of which shall be furnished by the Quartermaster General. Second Lieutenant D. S. Stanley, second dragoons, will act as quartermaster and commissary to this expedition.
" 3. Upon the proper requisitions, officers on duty in the quartermaster and commissary departments at the various military posts upon the route will furnish, as far as possible, all necessary supplies, which will be paid for at cost prices from the appropriation for the survey.
" 4. Medical stores will be furnished by requisitions upon the Surgeon General. " 5. Ammunition and arms may be obtained from the Ordnance department.
" This party being organized, will collect the necessary instruments and equipments. It will then repair to the field with the utmost despatch and proceed with the survey and reconnaissance in question. The main party will rendezvous at some convenient point on the Mississippi river, and thence proceed by the most favorable route westward towards Rio del Norte. From hasty reconnaissance, and from such information as can be obtained from other sources, it may be determined from what point upon the river Mississippi the proposed railway should commence, and whether it may be advantageously connected with any railway already projected by States or companies westward from that river.
"The reconnaissance will continue along the headwaters of the Canadian, cross the Rio Pecos, turn the mountains east of the Rio del Norte, and enter the valley of that river at some available point near Albuquerque. From thence westward, extensive explorations must determine the most practicable pass for a railway through the Sierra Madre, and the mountains west of the Zuand Moquis countries, to the Colorado. In these explorations Fort Defiance can be made a depot for supplies and may furnish subsistence and transportation thence for the remainder of the route. From Walker's Pass it would be advisable to pursue the most direct and practicable line to the Pacific ocean, which will probably lead to San Pedro, the port of Los Angelos, or San Diego.
"Lieutenant Whipple will immediately detail an officer, with a small party, to proceed directly to Albuquerque, in New. Mexico, in order to make that place a cardinal astronomical point in the survey, and to hasten preparations for the necessary explorations in the mountainous regions of New Mexico before the approach of winter.
"Over such portions of the route as evidently afford no material obstacle to the construction of a railway, a rapid reconnaissance will suffice. This work, however, must be checked by numerous geographical points determined by astronomical observations.
Through mountain passes greater accuracy will be necessary, in order to determine (roughly) the grades and, curves to be adopted, and the probable expense of their construction. Great attention will be given to those collateral branches of science which more or less directly affect the solution of the question of location for the proposed railway : the nature of the rocks and soils ; the means of obtaining water upon arid plains-whether by tanks or artesian wells ; the products of the country, animal, mineral and vegetable ; its population and resources; its supply of timber and other materials for the construction of a railway; the location, character, habits, tradition, and language of the Indian tribes.
"Meteorological and magnetic observations will be attended to ; the hygrometrical and electrical states of the atmosphere will be noticed ; and all practicable measures will be adopted in order to develop the character of the country through which the party is to pass.
"On or before the first Monday of February next Lieutenant Whipple will report the result of his investigations.
After the completion of the field-work, the party will be disbanded in California ; the soldiers no longer required will be placed at the disposal of the commanding officer of that department ; and Lieutenant Whipple, with such officers and assistants as he may deem necessary, will proceed to prepare for Congress a detailed report of the operations of the survey.
" The sum of forty thousand dollars will be set apart to defray the expenses of the survey intrusted to Lieutenant Whipple.
" JEFFERSON DAVIS,
" Secretary of War."
" WAR DEPARTMENT, Washington, July 25, 1854.
"SIR : You will, with as little delay as possible, furnish this department with a report of your operations, embracing-
"Ist. A map exhibiting the actual line or lines surveyed by yourself and your assistants, on your late explorations to ascertain the most practicable route for a railway to the Pacific ; and also a table showing the astronomical points determined for checking the lineal surveys, and the data upon which these determinations are founded.
2d. A profile of the route traversed, marking each station where a height was ascertained, and a table of the results of the observations made with the barometer or other instruments, by which the relative heights of different points were determined.
"3d. A condensed statement of the character of the soil, the timber, the supply of water, and, as far as ascertained, the depth of snow in winter, for every section of the line traversed.
" For the immediate use of the government, the relative longitude and the relative heights. of points along any given line are required. A discussion of the absolute longitude and heights, also the preparation of the natural history, geology, &c., may be deferred, without injury to the object now in view.
"The map and profile should indicate new routes or lines to be surveyed, and those heretofore surveyed, by which obstacles on the line followed may be avoided. "Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
JEFFERSON DAVIS, "Secretary of War. "Lieut. A. W. WHIPPLE, Topographical Corps, Washington."
PREPARATIONS FOR THE SURVEY.
Among the first of the preliminary duties required by the preceding instructions, were the organization of a party, and the collection of the necessary surveying instruments. The former was soon effected. So great was the number of applicants to the War Department for this work, that the services of many who had been most highly recommended were necessarily declined.
The following is a list of those employed:
Name.Residence.Duties.
1. J. M. Bigelow, M. D. Ohio Surgeon and botanist.
2. Jules Marcou Massachusetts Geologist and mining engineer.
3. C. B. R. Kennerly, M. D.VirginiaPhysician and naturalist.
4. A. H. Campbell Virginia Principal assistant railroad engineer.
5. H. B. MDistrict of Columbia Topographer and artist.
6. Hugh Campbell Texas Assistant astronomer.
7. William White, jr Pennsylvania Assistant meteorological observer and surveyor.
8. George Gibson Garner Maryland Assistant astronomer and secretary.
9. N. H. Hutton District of Columbia Assistant engineer.
10. John P. Sherburne New HampshireAssistant meteorological observer and surveyor
11. Thomas H. Parke Pennsylvania Assistant astronomer and computer.
*12. Walter Jones, jr. District of Columbia Assistant surveyor.
A portion of the instruments required for our operations it was found a matter of great difficulty to obtain, in consequence of the recent outfit of parties for scientific explorations. Commodore Perry had just gone upon his mission to Japan; Captain Ringgold was completing his preparations to explore in the North Pacific ocean; Dr. Kane was in readiness to recommence his search for the lost ship of Sir John. Franklin: and Governor Stevens, in charge of a party to examine the northern route for a Pacific railroad, had secured the few instruments of the kind referred to which the others had left. Every portable transit, magnetometer, and barometer, that could have been purchased in the shops, or borrowed from scientific societies and observatories, had been already appropriated for one or the other of these expeditions. The ordinary surveying and astronomical instruments were, as usual, furnished by the Topographical Bureau; but barometers we were obliged to have made for the occasion, and it was necessary to wait until they could be completed.
The needful preparations for transportation and subsistence were meanwhile progressing. In these operations we were greatly indebted to the Quartermaster General's department, for the aid and facilities it afforded. Major Crossman, at Philadelphia, gave the matter his personal attention, and in less than two weeks our wagons, tents, &c., were constructed and delivered to the railroad company for transportation to Cincinnati. In order that no time should be lost, Lieut. Ives immediately set out for New Mexico, by the way of San Antonio, Texas, and El Paso. At the latter place were a few astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological instruments, which having been deposited there by the Mexican Boundary Commission, were placed at our disposal by the honorable Secretary of the Interior. Having obtained these, Lieut. Ives was instructed to repair to Albuquerque, and there await the arrival of the main party ; making, meanwhile, astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological observations, obtaining information of the country beyond, and completing such preparations as should facilitate our progress westward from that place.
On the 29th of May, the last division of the party left Washington for the Mississippi river and the frontier; a portion going by the way of New York city, in order to obtain the instruments that were there being completed. We then hastily proceeded to Cincinnati, where Lieutenant Stanley, the acting commissary, was purchasing stores for the subsistence of the party. To these were added a few presents for the Indians, from a small fund granted by the Indian bureau for this purpose.
Unfortunately the Quartermaster's supplies, sent by railroad from Philadelphia, had not yet arrived; but as an agent had accompanied the train to attend to them, and as the rapid falling of the river created fears lest navigation might be suspended, it was not deemed prudent to delay our own departure on that account. We therefore immediately took passage for Memphis. There we learned that the State of Arkansas had already given a charter for branch railroads from Little Rock, which would connect Memphis with Fort Smith, and that no doubt was entertained of the feasibility of constructing them. Special examinations within the State seemed unnecessary, and we therefore hastened by the way of Napoleon, Little Rock, and Van Buren, to Fort Smith ; acquiring such information, and taking such notes, by the way, as circumstances would admit.
We arrived at Fort Smith on the 2d of July. Capt. Montgomery, the army quartermaster at that place, had, with great promptness and energy, made the desired preparations for our departure. The escort ordered from Fort Gibson had also arrived, under the command of First Lieut. Jno. M. Jones, 7th infantry. Nothing but the Quartermaster's stores from Philadelphia were wanting to enable us to proceed with the reconnaissance. While awaiting these, astronomical and meteorological observations were made, as a basis for future operations; and the geologist, the botanist, and the zoologist employed themselves in examining the surrounding country to obtain collections in their various departments. A special expedition was made to the summit of Sugar-loaf mountain, where meteorological observations were taken, and many interesting additions made to the scientific collections.
On the 11th of July, I learned by letter from Mr. White, who was in charge of the camp equipage from Philadelphia, that the boat on which the property was being transported from Cincinnati had run aground upon a sand-bar in the Ohio river. To remedy, as far as possible, the misfortune of this delay, we borrowed tents and wagons from Capt. Montgomery, proposing to proceed with the survey so slowly as to afford the party an opportunity to become acquainted with the duties which would be required of them, and enable our own train to overtake us when it should arrive.
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